French Valley Hike

Two of the Cuernos del Paine ("Horns of Paine") from the catamaran crossing Lago Pehoe.

The trail to the French Valley starts from the Lodge Paine Grande area. Shortly after the start of the hike, this picturesque tree silhouetted against the turquoise waters of Lago Pehoe.

A devastating fire swept through Torres del Paine National Park this past January, but already the area is recovering. We were happy to see new growth sprouting from the base of charred lenga (southern beech) trees.

Hiking from Campamento Italiano ("Italian Camp") toward the Mirador Frances. The French Glacier clings to the massive bulk of the Paine Grande mountain.

 Looking toward Lago Pehoe from the Mirador Frances.

 The walls of Paine Grande from Mirador Frances.

The Rio Frances from Campamento Italiano.

The swinging bridge crossing the Rio Frances from Campamento Italiano.

A view of the North Horn (left) and the Principal Horn (right) from the trail heading back to Lago Pehoe.

Windswept Lago Skottsberg. Powerful winds churned up the waters of the lake creating a mist over the lake surface and small whirlwinds (like dust devils) danced across the waters. Every time I've walked by Lago Skottsberg, I've been privileged to see this phenomenon.

A view of the Cuernos del Paine rising over Lago Skottsberg.

Afternoon sunlight on the flanks of the Cuernos del Paine.

The peaks of Espada ("sword") and Hoja ("leaf") in the French Valley.

Paine Grande (in the clouds) and the Cuernos del Paine rising over Lago Nordenskjold.

Back at the Hotel las Torres

Almost home. The last bridge before reaching the Hotel las Torres.

Rio Ascensio

The valley of the Rio Ascencio on the return hike to the Hotel las Torres.

Patagonian Icon

The Torres del Paine from the Mirador las Torres.

Torres del Paine

The group at the Torres mirador. Hello from Torres del Paine! Chile lindo!

The Torre Central, Torres del Paine

The Torre Central rises above a moraine on the final pitch to the Mirador las Torres.

Climbing the Moraine to the Mirador las Torres

The final steep climb up the moraine to the Mirador las Torres.

Entering the Valley of the Rio Ascencio

Nearing Refugio Chileno on the hike the the Mirador las Torres.

The Group's First Hike in Torres del Paine

Hiking into the valley of the Rio Ascencio.

Sunny Start to our First Day in Torres del Paine

Starting off on the hike to the Mirador las Torres from the Hotel Las Torres.

Nido del Condor

Glorious sunshine illuminates the walls of the Nido del Condor.

Good morning, Torres del Paine

It was raining last night when we arrived at the Hotel Las Torres in Torres del Paine National Park. But this morning, the view out the window promised a crystal day! Sunrise tints the walls of the Nido del Condor, part of the Paine masssif.

Patagonian Wildlife, Part II

Guanacos near Laguna Amarga.

Patagonian Wildlife

A choique (or nandu) seen along the roadside north of Cerro Castillo.

Gasoline Outpost

The gas station at Rio Coyle. Fill up now!

Steppes and Peaks

View of distant peaks rising over the Patagonian steppe. From the "El Monito" viewpoint on Route 40 between El Calafate and La Esperanza.

In Patagonia

En route from El Chalten (Argentina) to Torres del Paine (Chile). A small homestead along the Rio La Leona between La Leona and El Calafate.

Dinner at Estepa, El Chalten

My steak, vuelta y vuelta, at Estepa Restaurant. "Vuelta y vuelta" is the way to ask for it rare which is not common in Argentina.

Salud!

Wine tasting in El Chalten.

Carancho

A southern crested caracara, or carancho, sitting in a lenga (southern beech) tree en route to Pliegue Tumbado.

Loma del Pliegue Tumbado

A rainbow graces a view of the Loma del Pliegue Tumbado ("Hill of the Recumbent Fold").

Balanced Rock

Curious sight on the trail to Pleigue Tumbado.

Under the Rainbow

Today, El Chalten is on the edge between the sun and the rain. It's sunny over Lago Viedma, but the peaks are wrapped in a cloak of clouds. Sunny spells alternating with showers are the order of the morning. We're headed to the Loma del Pliegue Tumbado today. A rainbow greets us as we start the hike. One person in the group makes it all the way to the Pliegue Tumbado viewpoint, but the weather limits the views.

Dinner at the Ritual del Fuego

Bife de chorizo with cream sauce and grilled eggplants, sweet potatoes and leeks. Third dinner in El Chalten.

The Hike to Laguna de los Tres

A southern beech (Nothofagus) woodland in the valley of the Rio Blanco en route to Laguna de los Tres from El Pilar. A scene, perhaps from your imaginings of Sherwood Forest or Middle Earth?

A view of the Piedras Blancas Glacier and Lake.

After a climb of 1,500 feet from the climber's camp at Rio Blanco, we arrive at Laguna de los Tres.

 Enjoying  the view over the Laguna Sucia.

 The waters of Laguna Capri looking toward Cerro Electrico.

Almost back to El Chalten.  A view of the bends of the Rio de las Vueltas.

The Trail to El Chalten

The trail back to El Chalten passes through lovely southern beech (Nothofagus) woodland.

The Group at Laguna Torre

Our group on the moraine of Laguna Torre. The Cordon Adela and Cerro Torre rise in the background.

Torre, Egger and Standhardt

A close-up of Cerro Torre (left), Torre Egger (center), and Cerro Standhardt (right). Taken from Laguna Torre.

Laguna Torre

On the shores of Laguna Torre. The Glaciar Grande ("Big Glacier") descends to the lake from the Cordon Adela (left). Cerro Torre rises in the center of the picture.

Reflections

The Cordon Adela and Cerro Torre reflected in a small pond en route to Laguna Torre.

The Trail to Laguna Torre

The trail to Laguna Torre proceeds up the valley of the Rio Fitzroy. The mountains, from left to right, are: Cerro Solo, the Cordon Adela, and the Cerro Torre.

Welcome to Patagonia!!

First view of the peaks from the trail along the Rio Fitzroy. From the left: the Cordon Adela, Cerro Torre, Poincenot, Fitzroy.

Cecilia reviews the day's hike

On the way to Laguna Torre via the trail along the Rio Fitzroy.

Raviolis de cordero at La Tapera

El Chalten is full of little restaurants that serve good food. La Tapera is one of our favorites. Here is their raviolis de cordero (lamb raviolis). Buen provecho!

Cerro Torre Revealed

Clouds drift around the peaks of Cerro Torre, Torre Egger and Cerro Standhardt on approach to El Chalten. A fairy tale castle in the sky...

Rio La Leona

The Rio La Leona drains the sixty-mile-long Lago Viedma. Took this photo from the banks of the river near the old La Leona Hotel. Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid once stopped here after having robbed a bank in Rio Gallegos. El Chalten, our destination for today, is still over 100 kilometers away.

Perito Moreno Glacier

The Perito Moreno Glacier in Los Glaciares National Park, Argentina. We were blessed with abundant sunshine and hardly a breath of wind.

Descending from the Hielo Sur

The Perito Moreno Glacier (foreground) descends from the the Hielo Sur, the Southern Icecap.

Our first dinner as a group at La Cocina in El Calafate. Steak with cream sauce, onions and ham plus Patagonian malbec. Buen provecho!

The Patagonian Andes

A portion of the remarkable view from the hill behind the Hotel Edenia. Lago Argentino (the largest lake in Argentina) is in the middleground. It's sunny, warm and virtually windless today...that's the kind of Patagonian weather I like!

Morning in El Calafate. View of distant peaks to the north as seen from El Calafate town.

Crescent Moon over El Calafate

Taken from El Calafate looking north over Lago Argentino. Dinner at Casimiro Bigua Asador--flank steak with grilled vegetables. I am in Argentina!

Arrival at El Calafate

It's a 3.5 hour flight from Buenos Aires to El Calafate. Arrived about 19:10. Beautiful light! Welcome to Patagonia.

Buenos dias from Buenos Aires

Sunny day in Buenos Aires! Arrived after a 10.5 hour flight from Washington Dulles. Now at the Aeroparque Jorge Newbery awating my flight to El Calafate.